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Fitting an Electronic Boot Release
By Alex JB

This is a guide to fit a electronic boot realease to a model which doesn't already have one. Doing this will enable you to open the boot at the touch of a button from the front seats.

I did this to my KA 2 98' model, but I am unsure if there is any difference in the mechanism for a later models, I notice the lift handle is smaller and much smoother, that was the idea here.

You will need:
A two locking motor from maplins
Screw drivers
Wire
A switch
A relay

 
 
Removing the inner panel in the boot lid's easy, take out the peg by the inner handle then slowly pull at it until it comes off. Try to keep going round it bit by bit, that way you won't break any pegs off.
Running a wire from the front to the back is the next bit, I ran a single wire from the boot lock area inside the right hand side of the boot lid frame and used a piece of welding wire to feed it through the hole where the rubber channel goes into the lid (this has the rear squirter hose in it). Then pushed it through the back of the rubber. From there the wire sits nicely inside the boot seal and down to the RHS where I took it inside the car, behind the seat belt, under the seat and off to my relay (or switch if you like).
 
You cannot see the wire once the seal is back in place honest!
 

To remove the lock mechanism, rotate the white part of the clip 90 deg and it will slide down the shaft. Then open the two retaining wings and slide the clip off. Now undo the 2 M5 nuts holding the whole assembly on and drop it through the hole.
 
Pull the red grommet out of the bracket, now the lever with the cable attached will come off the shaft and by pressing the wings together on the black plastic nipple, the lever now comes away from the cable.

To fit the solenoid, first buy one! I got a standard 2-wire door lock motor from Maplins, these are about 8 quid and have a fitting plate with them. Cut and file the fitting plate to allow the red grommet to be fitted. 
 
 
Now put a bend in to the fitting plate about 15 deg to allow the far end of the fitting plate to rest on the strengthener inside the boot. Mark through the fitting plate and drill through. I used M4 pins, nuts and washers, you could use self tappers if you like. The locating eye on the end of the solenoid is too small for the peg on the end of the cable, it needs drilling out to 5mm. Then attach the cable to the solenoid and check where it sits. The mounting hole in the solenoid should line up with one of the slots in the fitting plate, but you will have to open up the mounting hole in the solenoid to fit a M4 x 50 long bolt. Make yourself a spacer to space the solenoid from the bracket, this should put the solenoid locating eye on the correct angle with respect to the red grommet and cable end.
 
 
 

 
Now with the boot open, give it a try, mine worked first time.
 
One thing I have noticed is that the peg from the wire into the locating eye is working it's way out, I would suggest tape or a cable tie around them to stop this.
 
As for the handle, well this is a case of some time and filler. I glued a piece of plastic over the back of the hole where the lock used to be and just filled in the hole. I used some spray primer/filler when I had it quite smooth, it's really good to show up imperfections and with another coat or three it'll be thick enough to sand them out.After painting I used 2 x M6 nuts to replace the barrel bracket, so my socket would be long enough!

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